How to Fix a Leaky Faucet Fast (Step-by-Step Homeowner Guide)

A dripping faucet wastes water, spikes your bill, and slowly stains sinks and counters. The good news: most leaks can be fixed in under an hour with inexpensive parts and a few basic tools. This guide shows you exactly how to diagnose the leak, identify your faucet type, and perform the right repair fast—without damaging the finish or over-tightening parts.

Quick Wins Before You Start

• Shut off water at the angle stop valves under the sink (turn clockwise).

• Plug the drain with a stopper or towel so you don’t lose screws.

• Protect the finish with painter’s tape around the handle/escutcheon.

• Photograph each step for easy reassembly.

• Use silicone plumber’s grease (not petroleum jelly) on O-rings.

Fast Diagnosis: Where is the leak?

Identify Your Faucet Type (so you fix the right part)

Tools & Materials (what you’ll actually use)

Step-by-Step Repairs (by faucet type)

Always shut off the water and relieve pressure by opening the faucet before disassembly.

A) Compression Faucet (two handles, turns many rotations)

1. Shut off water and open the faucet to relieve pressure.

2. Remove handle: pry off index cap, unscrew handle, lift off.

3. Loosen packing/bonnet nut with a wrench; lift out the stem.

4. Replace the seat washer at the bottom of the stem (held by a small screw). Match size & profile (flat vs beveled).

5. Inspect the valve seat inside the faucet body. If pitted, remove with a seat wrench (hex or slotted) and replace; otherwise lap lightly.

6. Reassemble stem, apply a dab of silicone grease to stem threads and packing/O-ring.

7. Snug the packing nut (finger tight + ¼ turn). Don’t overtighten.

8. Reinstall handle, open the shutoffs, and test. If it still drips, the seat may need replacement or you may have a mis-matched washer.

Typical parts cost: $2–$10 (washers/packing), $5–$12 (new seat).
Skill/time: Beginner; 20–45 minutes.

B) Cartridge Faucet (most single-handle; many two-handle modern models)

1. Shut off water; open the faucet to relieve pressure.

2. Remove handle: locate the tiny set screw (rear/underside). Loosen with Allen key; lift handle.

3. Take off the dome cap/escutcheon (hand-twist or slip-joint pliers with tape).

4. Remove retaining clip or nut that locks the cartridge. Keep orientation photos.

5. Pull the cartridge straight up. If stuck, use a cartridge puller or gently rock it.

6. Match and replace with the identical cartridge (brand & model matter). Swap O-rings and apply a thin film of silicone grease.

7. Reinstall in the same orientation (hot/cold indexing). Refit clip/nut, handle, and cap.

8. Turn on water slowly and test through full motion. If temperature is reversed, rotate the cartridge 180° (brand-dependent).

Typical parts cost: $15–$45.
Skill/time: Beginner to intermediate; 25–50 minutes.

C) Ball-Type Faucet (older single-handle, e.g., classic Delta)

1. Shut off water; open faucet.

2. Remove handle and dome cap; unscrew the cam and cam washer.

3. Lift out the ball; note the slot orientation.

4. Use needle-nose pliers to remove the springs and rubber seats in the body.

5. Install new springs & seats (from a dedicated repair kit).

6. Reinstall the ball, cam & washer; hand-snug the cap.

7. Refit handle, restore water, and test for smooth movement and seal.

Typical parts cost: $8–$20 (kit includes springs, seats, gaskets).
Skill/time: Beginner; 20–40 minutes.

D) Ceramic Disc Faucet (single or dual handle, short ¼-turn feel)

1. Shut off water; open faucet.

2. Gently pry the handle cap and remove the handle screw.

3. Remove any retaining screws and lift out the ceramic cartridge.

4. Inspect and clean rubber seals and the inlet screens (soak in vinegar to dissolve mineral scale).

5. If cracked/chipped, replace the cartridge; otherwise, clean and lightly grease the O-rings.

6. Reassemble in the original orientation; do not overtighten—ceramic stacks need only firm seating.

Typical parts cost: $20–$60 (cartridge).
Skill/time: Intermediate; 30–60 minutes.

Fixing Leaks at the Base of the Spout (O-rings)

A base leak means water is sneaking past the spout O-rings.

1. Shut off water and remove the handle/retainer as needed.

2. Lift the spout straight up (some use a hidden clip).

3. Roll off old O-rings; clean the grooves and spout shank.

4. Install new O-rings of the same size; apply silicone grease generously.

5. Reassemble and test at various positions.

Parts cost: $3–$8. Time: 15–30 minutes.

Aerator Drips or Spray

• Unscrew the aerator (hand-tight or with taped pliers).

• Disassemble and flush debris; soak in vinegar to remove scale.

• Replace the flat gasket if cracked.

• Reinstall hand-tight + a tiny nudge; don’t cross-thread.

Leaks Under the Sink (supply lines & shutoffs)

• Compression nuts: Snug ⅛–¼ turn with a wrench—stop if resistance spikes.

• Braided supply hoses: Replace if older than ~7–10 years or if any bulge/fray is visible.

• PTFE tape: Use on male tapered threads (e.g., IPS adapters), but not on compression fittings where a ferrule creates the seal.

• Sprayer/filtered faucets: Check quick-connect O-rings; lube/replace as needed.

Typical Costs & Time (so you can plan)

Sealants & Lubricants Cheat Sheet

Pro Tips to Avoid Common Mistakes

• Match parts exactly. Take the old washer/cartridge to the store or compare measurements (diameter, height, spline count).

• Don’t over-tighten. Most seals need firm, not brute force. Overtightening can warp seats and crack escutcheons.

• Descale first. Heat + scale = stuck parts. Soak with vinegar or a descaler, then try again.

• Label hot/cold. Reinstall cartridges in the original orientation to avoid reversed temperature.

• Replace both sides on two-handle faucets. If one side failed, the other is close behind.

When to Call a Pro

• Frozen shutoff valves that won’t turn or are leaking at the stem.

• Severely corroded valve seats that won’t come out or reseat.

• Cracked faucet body or stripped mounting studs.

• Luxury finishes (living brass, black titanium) where slip-ups are expensive.

If you’re replacing the entire faucet, shut off the water at the main, disconnect supply lines, loosen mounting nuts, and lift out the assembly. Clean the sink deck, set the new gasket or plumber’s putty (if required by the manufacturer), and mount the new faucet per instructions.

Save Water & Money

A slow drip can waste hundreds of gallons per month. After your repair, consider adding:

• New aerator (1.2–1.5 GPM for bathroom, ~1.8 GPM for kitchen) for instant savings.

• Inlet screens or a small sediment filter if your water has grit that wears seals.

• Pressure check: Excessive pressure (often >80 psi) accelerates leaks; a pressure-reducing valve can help.

FAQ (Fast Answers)

Why does my faucet drip after I shut it off?
The internal seal (washer, seat, cartridge, or ceramic) no longer makes a perfect seal. Replacing the correct part stops the drip.

How tight should the packing nut be?
Snug finger-tight + ¼ turn to stop weeping. If you need more, the packing or O-ring likely needs replacement.

My hot and cold are reversed after a cartridge swap. What now?
Lift the handle off, remove the cartridge, rotate it 180°, and reinstall (brand-dependent). Keep the retaining clip oriented correctly.

Can I use petroleum jelly on O-rings?
No. Use 100% silicone plumber’s grease—petroleum can degrade rubber.

The aerator won’t budge. Tips?
Wrap with a rubber jar-grip or tape the jaws of pliers to protect the finish. A short vinegar soak softens scale and frees threads.

Do I need to replace seats when I replace washers?
If the seat is pitted or grooved, yes—new washers won’t seal properly against a damaged seat.

Step-by-Step Summary (Copy-and-Do)

1. Shut off water and open faucet to relieve pressure.

2. Identify faucet type (compression, cartridge, ball, ceramic).

3. Disassemble: remove handle, cap/escutcheon, and retaining parts.

4. Replace the failing part: washer & seat, cartridge, springs & seats, or O-rings.

5. Clean & lube: remove mineral scale; apply silicone grease to O-rings.

6. Reassemble in original orientation; snug, don’t crush.

7. Turn water on slowly, purge air, and test hot, cold, and full swing.

8. Inspect for weeps at the base, handle, and under sink after 10–15 minutes.